Amber in Jewelry: 40 Years of Lore and Artisan Craftsmanship

I am Reza Piroznia, FCGmA—Master Artisan, Certified Gemmologist. Part of our Ultimate Amber Guide. The rich tradition of amber in jewelry craftsmanship spans centuries, and this historical perspective complements the investment insights detailed in our complete Amber guide.

What is Amber? More Than Just 'Tree Sap'

Often dismissed as merely fossilized tree resin, amber is far more nuanced. It is a window into the past, a time capsule preserving fragments of ancient ecosystems. To truly appreciate amber in the context of jewelry, we must first move beyond the simplistic definition and understand its formation, composition, and classification. It is, at its core, a hardened, fossilized resin derived from ancient coniferous trees. However, the 'how' and 'why' of that hardening is where the magic – and the technical understanding – begins.

The process begins with the exudation of resin from trees. This resin, rich in organic compounds, serves as a natural defense mechanism, protecting the tree from insects, fungi, and physical damage. When environmental conditions are conducive, this resin can be buried under layers of sediment, preventing its complete decomposition. Over millions of years, through a process of polymerization and oxidation, the volatile organic compounds evaporate, and the resin undergoes a gradual transformation into the solid, stable material we recognize as amber. This process, often referred to as "maturation," is crucial to determining the amber's quality, durability, and appearance. The type of tree, the climate, and the geological conditions all play a vital role in the final product. Think of it as a slow, natural alchemy.

Composition: Unpacking the Chemical Secrets

The chemical composition of amber is complex and varies depending on its origin and age. Primarily, amber consists of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. These elements form complex organic compounds, including various terpenes, resin acids, and alcohols. Succinic acid, a dicarboxylic acid, is often found in Baltic amber and has historically been used as a marker for identifying this particular variety, although its presence alone is not definitive. The exact proportions of these compounds determine the amber's color, hardness, and clarity. It's not as simple as identifying one single compound. In fact, the specific chemical fingerprint of amber can be used to trace its origin. New analytical techniques are constantly refining our understanding of these complex compositions. We are always learning.

While a detailed chemical analysis goes beyond the scope of this practical guide, it's crucial to understand the key components that influence amber's properties:

• Resenes: These are the primary components of amber and contribute to its hardness and durability.
• Succinic Acid: While not present in all amber, its presence is often associated with Baltic amber and contributes to its characteristic properties.
• Volatile Oils: These compounds evaporate over time, contributing to the amber's maturation process and reducing its weight.
• Inclusions: Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of amber’s composition. Insects, plant matter, and even air bubbles trapped within the resin offer invaluable insights into ancient ecosystems. These inclusions dramatically influence the value and desirability of a piece.

Classifying Amber: From Succinite to Copal

Not all “amber” is created equal. We need a system to categorize different types of amber based on age, composition, and geological origin. The most widely recognized classification is based on the degree of maturation, succinic acid content, and other factors. This allows us, as artisans and gemmologists, to differentiate between true amber and its younger, less valuable relatives.

• True Amber: This refers to fully matured, fossilized resin that is millions of years old. Baltic amber (Succinite) is a prime example, renowned for its clarity, color, and occasional presence of succinic acid.
• Copal: Often marketed as "young amber," copal is partially fossilized resin that is significantly younger than true amber, typically dating back thousands rather than millions of years. It is generally softer, stickier, and more prone to damage than true amber. One key difference is its solubility in certain solvents, a factor we'll explore later in the section on identification.
• Other Varieties: Beyond Succinite and Copal, there are other regional varieties of amber, each with unique characteristics. Dominican amber, for example, is known for its vibrant colors and high frequency of insect inclusions. Burmese amber (Burmite) is prized for its age and the rarity of its inclusions.

Distinguishing between these types of amber is critical for both valuation and proper handling. Using techniques appropriate for true amber on copal, for example, could lead to irreversible damage. Therefore, proper identification, aided by the guidelines established by organizations like the Canadian Gemmological Association (CGA), is paramount.

The FCGmA Standard: Verification and Authentication

As an FCGmA, I adhere to a rigorous set of standards for gemstone identification and grading. These standards are crucial when dealing with amber, especially given the prevalence of imitations and misleading marketing. Our training emphasizes a multi-faceted approach to identification, incorporating visual examination, physical property testing, and, when necessary, advanced analytical techniques.

The FCGmA verification process for amber typically involves the following steps:

• Visual Inspection: We start with a careful examination of the amber’s color, clarity, and surface characteristics. We look for tell-tale signs of authenticity, such as natural inclusions, flow marks, and variations in color.
• Hardness Testing: Amber has a relatively low hardness on the Mohs scale (typically 2-3). We use calibrated hardness picks to assess its hardness, comparing it to known standards. This helps rule out materials that are too hard or too soft to be genuine amber.
• Specific Gravity: Determining the specific gravity (SG) of amber is a crucial step. Genuine amber has a low SG, typically around 1.05-1.09, allowing it to float in a saturated salt solution. This is a simple but effective test for distinguishing it from denser imitations.
• Solubility Testing (with caution!): This test involves applying a small amount of solvent, such as acetone or ether, to an inconspicuous area of the amber. Copal will often become sticky or dissolved, while true amber will be largely unaffected. However, this test should be performed with extreme caution and only by experienced gemmologists, as it can damage some types of amber.
• Hot Needle Test: This involves gently touching a heated needle to an inconspicuous area of the amber. True amber will emit a characteristic pine-like odor, while imitations may produce a plastic or chemical smell. Again, this test must be performed with caution, as it can damage the surface of the amber.
• Spectroscopic Analysis (if needed): In cases where visual inspection and physical property testing are inconclusive, we may employ spectroscopic techniques, such as Raman spectroscopy or infrared spectroscopy, to analyze the amber's chemical composition. This provides a definitive identification by comparing the amber's spectral fingerprint to known reference standards.

The FCGmA designation represents a commitment to ethical and accurate gemmological practice. When evaluating amber, we strive to provide our clients with the most reliable and trustworthy assessment possible.

Amber Color: A Spectrum of Beauty

The color of amber is one of its most appealing characteristics, ranging from pale yellow to deep brown, and even rarer shades of red, green, and blue. These colors are influenced by several factors, including the type of tree resin, the presence of impurities, and the geological conditions during fossilization.

• Yellow and Brown: These are the most common colors for amber, resulting from the presence of organic compounds within the resin. The intensity of the color can vary depending on the concentration of these compounds and the degree of oxidation.
• Red: Red amber, also known as "cherry amber," is relatively rare and highly sought after. The red color is often attributed to the presence of iron oxides or other mineral impurities.
• Green: Green amber is typically found in the Dominican Republic and is believed to be caused by the presence of plant matter or algae within the resin.
• Blue: Blue amber is the rarest and most valuable type of amber. The blue color is caused by fluorescence due to the presence of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons. It appears blue under ultraviolet light and can exhibit a bluish hue under natural light depending on the viewing angle.

The color of amber is not only aesthetically pleasing but can also provide clues about its origin and composition. Understanding the factors that influence amber color is essential for both valuation and artistic expression.

Amber in Jewelry: 40 Years of Lore and Artisan Craftsmanship - Part 2

Following on from Part 1, we continue our deep dive into the captivating world of amber. We've explored its geological origins, chemical composition, and classification. Now, we'll turn our attention to the practical aspects of working with amber in jewelry making: its properties, cutting, polishing, and setting techniques, as well as discussing some common pitfalls to avoid.

Amber's Physical Properties: A Guide for Artisans

Understanding amber's physical properties is essential for any jeweler. It's a relatively soft and brittle material compared to other gemstones, demanding a careful and considered approach. Knowing its hardness, refractive index, and specific gravity will dramatically impact how you work with this gem.

The Master's Bench: Key Properties at a Glance

Property	Value	Notes
Refractive Index (RI)	1.539 - 1.545	Lower RI compared to many gemstones. Aids in identification.
Mohs Hardness	2 - 3	Soft material. Requires gentle handling to avoid scratches and abrasions.
Specific Gravity (SG)	1.05 - 1.09	Lower SG. Can float in saturated salt water.

Let's explore these properties in more detail:

• Refractive Index (RI): The refractive index of amber is relatively low compared to other gemstones. This means that light doesn't bend as much when it enters amber, resulting in a less brilliant or "fiery" appearance. However, the RI is useful in distinguishing it from certain imitations such as glass or plastic. A refractometer can quickly determine the RI.
• Mohs Hardness: With a hardness of only 2-3 on the Mohs scale, amber is easily scratched by everyday materials like dust, which often contains quartz (hardness of 7). Therefore, careful handling and storage are crucial. Avoid exposing amber jewelry to abrasive cleaners or rough surfaces. Polishing cloths designed for soft gemstones are recommended.
• Specific Gravity (SG): The low specific gravity of amber is a defining characteristic. As mentioned before, genuine amber will float in a saturated salt water solution. This is an easy and effective test, although it’s not entirely foolproof as some imitations can also have a similar SG. It is an easy test a jeweler can do in their shop.

Cutting and Polishing Amber: A Gentle Art

Cutting and polishing amber requires a delicate touch and the use of appropriate tools. The goal is to enhance its natural beauty while minimizing the risk of chipping, cracking, or overheating. Remember, heat is the enemy!

Here are some key considerations:

• Sawing: Use a fine-toothed saw, preferably a diamond-coated blade, with plenty of lubrication to prevent overheating. Cut slowly and steadily, allowing the blade to do the work. Force can lead to fractures.
• Shaping: Rotary tools with silicon carbide or diamond grinding wheels are ideal for shaping amber. Use low speeds and light pressure. Start with coarser grits and gradually move to finer grits to achieve the desired shape.
• Polishing: Polishing amber requires a very soft cloth and a fine polishing compound, such as cerium oxide or tin oxide. A gentle, circular motion is best. Avoid applying too much pressure, as this can generate heat and damage the surface. Microcrystalline wax can be used as a final sealant to further protect the polish.
• Lubrication: Always use water or oil as a lubricant during cutting and polishing. This will help to dissipate heat and prevent the amber from drying out and cracking.

Setting Amber: Designing for Durability

Setting amber jewelry presents unique challenges due to its softness and brittleness. The setting must be designed to protect the amber from impact and abrasion. Here are some strategies:

• Bezel Settings: Full or partial bezel settings offer the best protection, encasing the amber securely within a metal frame. Bezel settings also distribute pressure evenly, minimizing the risk of cracking.
• Prong Settings: Prong settings can be used, but they must be carefully designed to avoid putting excessive pressure on the amber. Use rounded or blunt prongs to minimize the risk of chipping. Consider using six or more prongs for added security.
• Channel Settings: Channel settings can be used for smaller pieces of amber, but ensure that the channel is wide enough to accommodate the amber comfortably without applying undue pressure.
• Adhesive Settings: In some cases, adhesives can be used to secure amber, particularly for cabochons or free-form pieces. Use a high-quality epoxy adhesive specifically designed for bonding gemstones to metal. Ensure that the adhesive is fully cured before wearing the jewelry.
• Metal Choice: Consider the metal used for the setting. Softer metals like fine silver or high-karat gold are more malleable and can be easily adjusted to fit the amber securely. Stiffer metals like stainless steel or titanium may require more precise fabrication.

Common Pitfalls and How to Avoid Them

Working with amber isn't without its challenges. Here are some common pitfalls to watch out for:

• Overheating: Excessive heat can soften or even melt amber. Always use plenty of lubrication and avoid prolonged exposure to high temperatures.
• Scratches and Abrasions: Amber is easily scratched. Handle it with care and avoid exposing it to abrasive surfaces. Store amber jewelry separately in soft pouches to prevent scratches.
• Chemical Damage: Amber can be damaged by certain chemicals, such as alcohol, acetone, and strong detergents. Avoid exposing amber jewelry to these substances.
• Impact Damage: Amber is brittle and can chip or crack if subjected to impact. Design settings that protect the amber from impact.
• Dehydration: Amber can dry out over time, becoming brittle and prone to cracking. Store amber jewelry in a cool, humid environment to prevent dehydration.

Spotting Fakes: A Word of Caution

Unfortunately, the market is flooded with amber imitations. These can range from simple plastic to more sophisticated resin composites. As an experienced gemmologist, I've developed an eye for spotting these fakes. Here's my personal tip:

Reza’s Authentication Tip: Pay close attention to the inclusions. Real amber often has natural imperfections like air bubbles, tiny cracks, or even preserved insects. However, look closely at these inclusions. Many fake ambers have unnaturally *perfect* insects or plant matter encased inside, often without any signs of stress or distortion. This symmetry and immaculate preservation are red flags! Also, look for repeating patterns in air bubbles - a hallmark of mass-produced plastics. Trust your gut – if it looks too perfect, it probably is.

Cleaning and Caring for Amber Jewelry

Proper cleaning and care are essential for preserving the beauty of amber jewelry. Here are some guidelines:

• Cleaning: Clean amber jewelry with a soft cloth and mild soapy water. Avoid using abrasive cleaners or harsh chemicals.
• Drying: Pat the amber dry with a soft cloth. Avoid using a hairdryer or other heat source to dry it.
• Storage: Store amber jewelry separately in soft pouches to prevent scratches and abrasion. Avoid storing it in direct sunlight or near heat sources.
• Regular Inspection: Regularly inspect your amber jewelry for any signs of damage, such as scratches, cracks, or loose settings. Have any damage repaired promptly by a qualified jeweler.

Conclusion: A Legacy in Resin

Amber, a gemstone with a storied past and captivating beauty, presents both challenges and opportunities for the jeweler. Its unique properties demand a careful approach, but the rewards are well worth the effort. By understanding its formation, composition, and physical characteristics, we can unlock its potential and create stunning pieces of jewelry that celebrate the artistry of nature and the skill of the artisan.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Fraquet, R. (1987). Amber. Butterworths.
2. Poinar, G. O., Jr. (1992). Life in Amber. Stanford University Press.
3. Ross, A. J. (1998). Amber: The Natural Time Capsule. Natural History Museum Publications.
4. Rice, P. C. (1987). Amber: Golden Gem of the Ages. Van Nostrand Reinhold Company.
5. Reza Gem Collection Research Lab. (2023). Internal Database on Amber Authentication Techniques. Unpublished data.

---